Chainsaw Repair

Interesting idea.  Cordless Drill powered pull starter

 Hey Al for that ole 2100 of yours.   

The cordless pull handle actuator is real neat. It is even better than mine . . . .

They are for starting the chainsaw engines converted over to model airplane use.

The non reduction one (Megatron) though it will run on 24 volts, I use a 12 volt truck battery on it and it turns 2800 no load rpm @ 600 in-oz torque at the hub and draws 100 amp at that load.

The 4:1 reduction one (Dynatron), I have set up to use two emergency light batteries and it turns 2400 no load rpm @2700 in-oz torque at the hub and draws 20 amp at that load.

The reduction unit is a Miller 4:1 reduction unit. You can buy them to fit either starter.

Yes, you need an aluminum spinner on the front of the engine.

The two hand one I bought at a garage sale after the guy died but he had a couple 50 cc engines that he started with it all the time.

The other one I bought unused with the reduction unit at a swap meet in Columbus, Ohio.

I've had them some 7 years. Wanted one years before but when I found them for $100 each 2nd hand I bought them.

The reduced speed one came with the reduction on it but I mounted the assembly on top of the emergency light batteries. Notice I have a capacitor across the starter button or it will blow the button up.

The capacitor is part of a stereo speaker crossover system and it came from Radio Shack.

The switch blows up when you let go. The collapsed windings of the electric motor act like a spark plug coil.

Try holding on to the leads of a running golf cart motor and take your foot off the peddle. It will ruin the rest of your day.

Even a DC arc welder will sometimes do that when you break the arc if you are both grounded and the handle is bad and your gloves wet.