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Author Topic: Chain damage  (Read 1902 times)

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  • Nitro Hotsaw
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Re: Chain damage
« Reply #10 on: January 13, 2014, 06:52:32 am »
Keeping your chain properly sharpened, tensioned and oiled not only makes the job of cutting easier but keeps you safe! I have seen lots of nasty cuts and damage to saws from chains jumping the bar.
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Re: Chain damage
« Reply #11 on: January 19, 2014, 09:48:17 pm »
Other ways to remove the burrs from the drive links, are to hold the chain loop 'inside out' (so that the points of the drive links are facing out) and remove the burrs with a bench grinder.  I prefer a ScotchBrite wheel for this, which leaves a polished finish, but any fine grinding wheel will do.  Don't take off any more than necessary, because you still want it to fit the sprockets.

If you want, you can clean up the front 'tang' of the drive link by running a round file through it.

Don't toss the chain.  It is something that happens quite frequently, often when twigs or small branches get caught between the chain and the bar, and is easily and effectively repaired.

Philbert
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Re: Chain damage
« Reply #12 on: January 26, 2014, 06:07:49 pm »
The burrs can also be pounded flat but I usually grind them off. I use the method someone else mentioned of turning the chain inside out and hitting the high spots on a bench grinder. It can be done in just a few minutes depending on how many links are damaged. It usually is only 5 links or so.

Almost every time I have derailed a chain, I was cutting brush, saplings and other small diameter stuff. One thing I like to avoid if possible is splintered wood like where a large branch gets broken in a storm. Those splinters seem to cause thrown chains when being bucked.
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