Chainsaw Repair

Any good tricks for replacing a broken clutch spring in my 357XP? I've not had to mess with one of these before. I imagine there must be some tricks to make getting it in easier.

Also, if one spring broke, is it better to just replace all three while I'm in there?

Thanks Cut4fun. That's very helpful. I did not have a shop manual.

I was wondering if my snap ring pliers would be helpful in getting the springs back on. Looks as though that is the recommended practice.

I don't suppose you have a shop manual for a Jonsered 2152, do you? That thing has leaked oil since it was new. I keep thinking I'm going to tear into it and find out the problem, but just haven't gotten around to it.

Thanks Cut4fun. That's very helpful. I did not have a shop manual.

I was wondering if my snap ring pliers would be helpful in getting the springs back on. Looks as though that is the recommended practice.

I don't suppose you have a shop manual for a Jonsered 2152, do you? That thing has leaked oil since it was new. I keep thinking I'm going to tear into it and find out the problem, but just haven't gotten around to it.

Link to a shop manual

I got the clutch springs replaced. What a pain in the neck those little buggers are!

As I pulled that off, I realized the sprocket was getting to the point where it should be replaced. No problem, I keep a spare. I pulled out the spare sprocket I had in my box of parts. No dice: the ID was larger than the splined shaft on my clutch drum. So I checked the parts manual Cut4Fun sent me. It called for a Husqvarna part 501 59 80-02. None of the stores nearby me had one, so I ordered a couple online. This is supposedly the equivalent of the Oregon 68210, a 3/8, 7 tooth standard spline, and the Oregon site confirms that the 68210 should fit the 357XP.

It appears I actually need a 3/8", 7 tooth, SMALL spline, since the ID of the sprocket is about 3/4". (I did get it used, and have been using it for years now. I guess the previous times I replaced the sprocket, I must have just brought them to the saw shop and said "give me one of these".)

So did some Husqvarna 357Xp saws get made with a different set-up, or do I have a saw that has been bastardized over the years.

Thanks, Spike60. There are no REAL Husqvarna dealers near me anymore, just the hardware stores who carry the lower end & mid level stuff. The only parts the carry are chains, a couple of bars, and spark plugs. The old timers who really knew their stuff have either passed away or closed up shop. The last servicing dealer nearby was a John Deere dealer, and apparently the corporate gurus forced him to switch to Stihl. This was too bad for him, because there is already a gold-level Stihl dealer at the Kubota/New Holland dealer about a mile away who is VERY good. Bad for me because I now have a 70 minute round trip to get service or parts (if I need the parts faster than mail order).

When shopping locally, I had both Husqvarna and Oregon part numbers, AND I brought the part I had removed from the saw with me. The Stihl dealers didn't have the size. The local Taylor Rental used to be a Jonsered dealer, but has switched over to Echo. They still service Jonsered and other saws. They had the right size, but it was some aftermarket junk. I bought two to have a spare. When I got them home, the both had so many burs and zits on the from the manufacturing process that one would not slide on the shaft at all, and the other would go on if I forced it, but was such a snug fit that it would not float on the shaft. That's when I went to mail order, but made the mistake of going by the part number, rather than measuring.

I'm guessing that new oil pick up line is the same, regardless of the drum and oil gear used, is that correct? My 357XP is currently oiling OK, but it has started to weep a bit of oil when stored (not as bad as my Jonsered 2152). What do I ask for if I want to get the new line? I'll likely have to get it online, so probably need a part number to search it out.