Author Topic: early 10-10A  (Read 604 times)

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Offline countryhog

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early 10-10A
« on: September 28, 2015, 09:19:43 am »
Finally getting around to my early 10-10A. Has points w/spark, flat muffler, LOW compression (rings barely stay in the cylinder for measuring; did measure ~0.067"-wow), no scoring on the p/c, pinless pistons, plenty of carbon. The exterior of the saw is UGLY but the inside (oil and fuel tanks and lower end are very clean. Compression chamber needs a good cleaning. I'm planning to replace seals and rings

I'm assuming the seals go on when the case is split. What surprises need I look for when doing the seals and rings? I've got the case split but haven't pulled the crank off yet. Being real deliberate so as to not be totally surprised and make things more difficult (not that I've ever done that). Anyone got any pix?

Thinking of using three bond on all the gasket surfaces. Good, bad, or no biggie idea?  Never worked on one of these saws before hence the newbie level questions. Better to have asked and be deemed a DA rather than not to have asked and truly be one

Per Aaron the SKF 6119 works on the PTO; does anyone know what aftermarket seals would work on the flywheel side?
now is never here but the past is always present.
semper fi ya'll

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Offline aclarke

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Re: early 10-10A
« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2015, 04:00:38 pm »
Measure the case O.D and crank diameter where the pto  bearing and seal fit

Offline aclarke

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Re: early 10-10A
« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2015, 06:18:48 pm »
Bunch of 10-10 crank seals on Ebay.   $12 range

Offline Al Smith

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Re: early 10-10A
« Reply #3 on: September 28, 2015, 09:07:57 pm »
FWIW the early 10-10's used gasket shellac as a sealer, the later used RTV sealant .I've always used Indian Head gasket sealer which is nothing but thinned down Permatex. The case halves do not use a gasket .

Offline aclarke

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Re: early 10-10A
« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2015, 11:13:03 pm »
Al , that interesting.  I put together a 7900 Dolmar case with the Permatex anaerobic gasket maker and it's still holding after several years.

Offline Eccentric

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Re: early 10-10A
« Reply #5 on: September 29, 2015, 01:17:55 am »
The 10-series saws used two different FW side seals.  Jerry's saw uses the less common one.  Jerry search eBay for the Mac # that I gave you on SH.  I don't yet have an AM match for that seal (unlike the other one).


I use Hondabond-4 (Honda branded Threebond 1194) on the crankcase/oil tank junction.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline countryhog

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Re: early 10-10A
« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2015, 09:45:48 am »
pulled the seals last night. the dimensions I get with my HF caliper are:
 1.564" x 0.564" x 0.257"
 spent couple hours doing on-line search and nothing. i'm guessing the huge OD might have something to do with that. looks like i'm stuck buying a NOS seal. what is the collective judgement concerning the "health" of NOS seals?
now is never here but the past is always present.
semper fi ya'll

Offline Al Smith

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Re: early 10-10A
« Reply #7 on: September 29, 2015, 09:38:42 pm »
I'll look up the cross reference when I get a chance .

FWIW you can most likely buy the seals via Randys engine service about as cheap as going through a bearing supply house .

Offline countryhog

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Re: early 10-10A
« Reply #8 on: October 01, 2015, 04:55:00 pm »
went ahead and bought the OE seal for both my 10-10A and PM60 off the bay. almost $13 each. also got OE rings for the 10-10A. figured since I paid $5 for the saw, why not. now I have $31 in it. may need to find a 20" bar for it but haven't gone through my stash yet to see if I have anything.
now is never here but the past is always present.
semper fi ya'll

Offline countryhog

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Re: early 10-10A
« Reply #9 on: November 23, 2015, 05:44:49 pm »
mostly done

now is never here but the past is always present.
semper fi ya'll

 

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