Chainsaw Repair

some pics of clutch and oiler adjustment.

Thanks for the pics.  I will get the echo tool asap.

Pay attention, 2 different echo tools and no guarantee it will work on the 5000.    Also look at the thread I bumped for you on using sockets to make your own clutch removal tool.

I cant believe the punch method  didnt work for you.  Thats the one I use as last resort and gets the most stubborn clutches off.

If I was willing to dent up the Y bracket, it probably would.  But as soon as I saw a little ding in it, I stopped.  I fully admit that I am weird.

I just looked up the oem redmax clutch tool and they have bumped their heads. $75      513636001

Thanks for bumping the clutch tool thread.  It gave me an idea of what I had to do. 

I went to my local guy and he got the clutch off for me using a Shindawa clutch removal tool.  He said he couldn't sell me one, because he's not allowed to, and he paid high dollar for his. 

So I took the clutch to autozone and matched up the right sized diameter socket that would allow me to make my cuts in the grooves of the socket, which was 22mm.  It was nice to have the clutch off of the saw for that part of things.

I marked it off, used the Dremel to made my cuts, kept them *just* on the small side, then used a sanding rod to bring them out to the right size, and now I have the perfect clutch removal tool for the saw.  (It's still untested, but it sure looks like a winner)

It's past dinner time, so I'll get everything together tomorrow and make some cuts with .325 -- Then when my 3/8 bar comes in a few days, I'll be able to swap out the rim sprocket and feel the 3/8 powar! 

My local Stihl shop told me that can't give me true RS non safety chain in .325 .050 but he said their new "mini hump" cuts way better than their old safety chain, but that their real selection of .325 is in .063. 

He told me he can give me whaaaatever I want in 3/8.  So knowing that, I may end up just running 3/8 even in longer lengths.